Mid Week Madness

We headed up to the Cave for our Wed RCD (rostered climbing day) with the Central Coast contingent (Pommy, Jules and Lofty). The day was perfect, not a cloud in the sky, perfect temps, things were shaping up for some good climbing.

We headed down to the Terrace to sample some of the tasty delights there. I started off with a 2nd ascent of Dan Wilde's new climb called Double Shot 23 (tough love @ 23) and managed to slip out of the crack on the onsight attempt.

JRW on Double Shot 23, The Terrace.

Lofty sent Jules up the classic Got that Pheelan feeling 21, followed by Flat White 21, smiles all around.

JRW and Pommy headed up Just Kick it 21 while we all headed back into the Cave to see Jules and Lofty flash Pull ya Plonka 23.

Dan Wilde hopped on his project sending it putting the draws on, calling it Long Wall Mining, going at 26. It starts up the alternate start to Black Leg Miner (right of the original start), then heads out left from the BLM rest ledge and finishes as the line hits the roof traverse of Pigeon Fanciers nightmare. Pommy decided to go for the 2nd ascent and went for a lap to feel the moves out.

I ventured round to the Fieg cave area to try George's 28 that I re-bolted, sorting the moves out. It felt more like 27, but climbed well. Dan Wilde then went for a lap, enjoying all the moves, putting it together really quickly.

Back in the Cave, Jules and Lofty headed up Black Leg Miner 25 (5.12b) with Jules making some great progress on this Cave resistance classic. Maybe next time for the boys from the Coast.

Julian Hurrell on Black Leg Miner 25 (5.12b)

Meanwhile Pommy had another 2 attempts on Dan's new Cave line, before it was time to head home.

Another good day was had by all, with everyone keen to head back.

The Cave

Well the Winter season is upon us and for those of us Novacastrian climbers tired of the 3 hour trip to the Blue Mountains (Blueys) or the 3.5 hour trip to Nowra, the best Winter option is Buladelah.

The Buladelah season has started off strong with several repeats of Jason Piper's classic Cave line, Pinching Pigeons 26 (5.12c). I was fortunate enough to bag the 2nd ascent, closely followed by Andy Richardson and Dan Wilde, both confirming the grade of 26. Andy flashed the 1st ground up ascent, linking Trotter's Trifecta 2 (24, 5.12a) into Pinching Pigeons. Mr Pumper, Rob Le Breton bagged the 2nd ascent of this obvious linkup and proposed a grade of 27 (5.12d).

Rob Le Breton on Black Leg Miner 25 (5.12b) © Tim Haasnoot

Rob Le Breton grabbed the 1st known Onsight of Black Leg Miner 25 (5.12b) put up several years ago by JRW, one for the pumpers!



On a flying 2 day visit, Jesse Lomas flashed Trotter's Trifecta 2 24 (5.12a), Onsighted Black Leg Miner 25 (5.12b) and redpointed the popular Toast 25 (5.12b) 2nd shot.

Girl Power saw Lauren Johnson flash Got that Pheelan Feeling 21 on the cave right side, a tidy effort indeed considering that many a hard man has taken a 'slumpy' on the rope on this technical pumper. Anika Jefferson also followed Loz's lead and dispatched it too. These girls have been hanging around Nowra strong girl Carlie LeBreton. Steel city sisters fo life.Lauren Johnson on Got that Phelan Feeling 21

On Wednesday (30/7/08) Buladelah stalwart JRW ticked his project The Troglodyte Pitch 2 25 (5.12b). It was a battle from start to finish, if JRW made one mistake he was off, fighting hard all the way to the anchors, WHAT A SEND!!! Congrats to JRW.

With the sending train fired up, I jumped on board and sent my cave project called Sugar Monster 27 (5.12d) on my 2nd burn of the day. It's 16 draws long and tackles the steep left hand side of the Cave. If you plan on repeating this one, pack at least 4 X 600mm slings with quickdraws attached and about 10 'double' draws.

JJ on Sugar Monster 27 (5.12c) © Tim Haasnoot

Jason Piper spent 4 days up at the Cave in a bolting frenzy. Adding a continuation to JRW's Pigeon Fancier's Nightmare 26, extending it out to the lip of the Cave, a MEGA roof traverse. He starts up his line Flesh Gording, joins into the Pigeon Fancier's Nightmare finish then continues on!! It will be the longest route in the Cave.
Jason not being thwarted by the night, threw on the headtorch and added new bolts below Pinching Pigeons to make a new line up the 'bow of the boat' to the PP anchor.

In the Fieg cave area, Jason re-bolted George Fieg's 29, name unknown, and we aren't sure if it has been done yet!! Anyone?? I re-bolted George's 28 on the right of the 29, name also unknown (I propose we call it "Cotton Legs" after George). Both of these lines look great and Im sure they will start receiving more attention, especially since the re-bolt.

Here is a video from Carlie & Rob at the F.I.S of some Goat Cave action.