Creature of Habit

There was a crew again for the sneaky mid-weeker, Neil Monteith, Jas, Jason 'Pommy' Smith, Timbo and myself.

Timbo and I arrived early, so I took advantage of the Terrace being in the sun and headed over to the Fieg wall and finished bolting a short and punchy line at the top of the Fieg wall area, with Timbo running around on the ground helping out (thanks Tim).

Tim and I then headed down to the terrace to join the other boys for our warmups.
Now warmed up, Timbo headed up Pinching Pigeons 26 and put the gear on, working out all the moves quickly.

Neil 'Monty' Monteith made a flash ascent of the cave classic Black Leg Miner 25, a very tidy effort from the Crux Magazine editor.

Jas got back on his uber project that starts up Fresh Gording 26 in the back of the cave and then goes into the JRW's project, Pigeons Fanciers Nightmare cave traverse. Jas made good progress on this and was unlucky not to sink the crucial kneebar anout 3/4 of the way out and came off.

Jas Piper on Creature of Habit 27/8, Pic © Neil Monteith 2008

Pommy and Monty then decieded to have a go at Karma Gettin 26 (an 8 bolt extention to Toast 25) as JRW left the gear on it. The boys made some good progress on it, finding the opening moves of Toast quite bouldery. This then leads to a long resistance finish.

I went around to the Fieg wall and fired off Fog Horn Leg Horn 27 1st go today, clipping the new anchors this time, not the old lol, happy days.

Timbo then had another go at Pinching Pigeons and came close, but made an unfortunate foot mistake and came off, so close!!

Neil and Pommy kept workin on getting some good Karma, but unfortunately no joy there.

I then had a go at JRW's climb called The Troglodyte 25 which is a 2 pitch climb right of Toast. The 1st pitch isn't very inspiring and quite sharp and goes at 25. The 2nd pitch is very nice steep climbing, also at grade 25, so having done the 1st pitch a few years ago, I was keen to have a go at the 2nd pitch.
I went for a lap and got 3/4 of the way up and had a slumpy on the rope, I couldn't see the jug that was right infront of my face lol. But I made amends and sent it 2nd shot, a highly recommended route and a great find from JRW.


That's how the day ended, but Jas, Monty and Timbo were heading back the next day (Wed) for some more fun.

Sidenote - the next day (Wed) Jas sent his cave mega project and called it Creature of Habit 27/8 and Timbo sent Pinching Pigeons 26 last shot of the day. Nice work boys and congrats =)

The season up here is coming to an end with the warmer temperatures, but the 08 season has been good, with lots of visits from far & wide, lots of projects sent and plenty more to go, bring on 09. Hope you can make it up there next year, it will be an even better season.
There is a unsent 29 waiting and an unsent 30/31 both put up by George Fieg begging for an ascent =)

Sandbagging........Buladelah style

There was a big crew for our Saturday jaunt to Buladelah. Young Mick, Old Mick,Old Mick's nephew Jason, Amina, Scott, Kate Doherty, Nick Kaz, Dan, JRW, AJ and myself.

We were hoping Mikl Law and Vanessa were going to come up and spend a few days in the Hunter Valley sampling some of our finest wines, and we might have even been able to drag them out for a good old fashioned sandbagging, but the lure of Nowra was all too easy *sigh* next time Mikl!!

The day wasn't shaping up so well, we were delayed with the State elections, so no early start at the crag for us (this turned out to be a blessing). The season is definitely coming to an end, as the higher temperatures were thwarting our warm ups.

Most of the guys stopped at the Bee Hive wall for a warm up, while JRW young Mick, AJ and myself headed down the hill a little to a shady Buladelah style 18 that JRW put up. It was certainly a very thought provoking warmup, the style would be described as technical window cleaning lol.

The sun was just about off the Terrace, so we headed around to the Cave and hit the Terrace. We warmed up on an unknown JRW climb that has a very high 1st bolt two climbs right of Just Kick It 21.

Nick Kaz decided to join us on the Terrace, I tipped JRW a wink, and recommended that Kaz should hop on my 4 bolt 21, called Flat White. If you have been climbing at Buladelah for a while and your eye is in, then you will have no trouble with this feisty little number, but unfortunately for Kaz, this was not to be the case. Kaz eventually got the 1st bolt clipped then proceeded to fall all over the start, then fell all the way to the second bolt and then all the way to the 3rd bolt. To Kaz's credit he didn't give up, just kept on fighting and cursing the 'girly man' who put the line up. There was plenty of sniggering from the two old fellas on the ground as the big fella cursed and fell all the way to the top.

Meanwhile Dan was keen to sink some new bolts into a line that he had been spying in the Fieg wall area. It is a line of pockets left of the Fieg 29 abandoned Project. It climbs some very steep and rounded territory, can't wait to get a picture of this!!

Meanwhile back at the Cave, JRW was working my line called Karma Gettin 26, it's an 8 bolt extension to Toast 25, pure resistance to the diabolical crux finish. JRW has made some great progress with the line and has put large chunks of it together.

On the Terrace young Jason was top roping the Wayne's 16/18 and then did his 1st ever lead on it shortly after, with evil Uncle Mick saying that "he wouldn't tell his mother".
Kate joined the line up for Phelan feeling and took a whip on the way to the 2nd bolt ouch that's a scary little fall!



Dan and I headed round to the Fieg wall and had a lap up the un-named 27/8 that George did 3rd shot a few years ago, which I recently re-bolted. On the 2nd shot (of the day) I clipped the old anchors and fell 2 holds from the new anchors, doh!
Dan saved the day and waltzed up it for a team ascent and in the process gained the 2nd ascent of George's line. We have called it Fog Horn Leg Horn and given it a grade of 27. It's a very exciting finish, especially when you are pumped, so get on it.

Dan Wilde on Fog Horn Leg Horn 27, Image © Julian Hurrell 2008